FEATURED BOSS AUDIO R1100M Riot 1100-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2-8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control
- 1100 W MAX Power, 1 Channel
825 W X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm
413 W X 1 RMS @ 4 ohm - Monoblock, Class A/B, MOSFET Power Supply
- High and Low Level Inputs
- Variable Low Pass Crossover, Variable Bass Boost
- Remote Subwoofer Control
- 6 Year Platinum Dealer Warranty
- MOSFET Monoblock Power Amplifier
- Remote Subwoofer Level Control Included
- Blue Illuminated BOSS Logo
- Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 1100 Watts
- RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 250 Watts
Class A/B Topology
A class A/B amplifier uses two groups of transistors and it is generally considered to be the best compromise of the two classes put together. A pure class ‘A’ amplifier typically has an enormous amount of current flowing through its output transistors with no audio signal. A pure class ‘B’ amplifier has no current flowing through its outputs with no audio signal. This eliminates virtually all of the crossover distortion that’s possible with class ‘B’ amplifiers. A class A/B amplifier is much more efficient than a class ‘A’ but without the possible distortion of a class ‘B’.
MOSFET Power Supply
Metal–Oxide–Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor is a transistor used for amplifying or switching electronic signals. We use it in computers, telephones, game consoles, cars, electrical appliances, and in our amplifiers. They are found in systems where information is processed or stored. A MOSFET is basically an electrical switch that allows the flow of electrical current. The MOSFET performs its most important role in our D Class amplifiers by allowing or preventing the flow of power and creating an efficient amplifier.
General Features
- Two ohm stable stereo operation with output power increase
- Thermal, overload, and speaker short protection
- Soft turn-on circuit
- Remote turn on / turn off circuit
- LED power and protection indicators
- Black anodized heatsink
- Nickel plated low level and high level inputs
What Comes In The Box?
- Remote subwoofer level control
- High input cable with connector
- Instruction manual
- Mounting screws
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Low And High Level Inputs
You can get a signal into RIOT series amplifiers two different ways – Low level and High level input. A low level input is measured in voltages. It comes in the form of RCA outputs from the back of your receiver and goes to the RCA inputs on your amplifier. A high level input is measure in wattages. It comes in the form one positive and one negative wire from the back of your receiver to and goes to the input terminal of your amplifier in the same wire form. Low-level (RCA) input wiring is preferred for best audio performance. Always use a high-quality RCA cable for best audio performance. Note: Do not connect both the high level and low level inputs from your receiver to your amplifier at the same time.
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Variable Bass Boost
With the R1100M amplifier you have Variable Bass Boost, which gives you control of exactly how much bass you want to pump out to your subwoofer(s).
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Variable Crossover
Subwoofers reproduce sound based low range frequencies. This process is called the crossover effect and occurs because the vast majority of audio systems cannot cover the entire spectrum sufficiently to minimize sound distortion and maintain an appropriate frequency ratio. In the case of our R1100M amplifier, a variable crossover is offered so that you, the listener, have the ability to set the frequency at which the crossover occurs, thereby setting precise sound specifications on your subwoofer.
Optimistic power claims,
My measurements show 21.5V rms continuous into 4 ohms at the onset of clipping with a 14.12V supply. This is 115W rms.
With no load it gives 23.9V with 14.12V supply. This corresponds to 142W rms peak.
So, essentially it is a 100-150W amp (4 ohms), or at best 200-300W (probably less) into 2 ohms. The claims of 250W into 4 ohms or 1100W into 2 ohms are at best ridiculously optimistic.
I would suggest that it is worth paying a bit more to get something better.
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|The Real Deal,
But there are a couple of myths, being two pieces of (…dare I say it?) outright misinformation that have become attached to this compact masterpiece, …even though I’m sure both of them were offered with the best of intentions.
As for me, I thought I’d wait until I’d driven it hard and bounced it around the Aussie Outback for a couple of months before any attempt at reviewing it.
A little background: I’m an Audio Director/Sound Supervisor in my fifth decade of ongoing work in this field, most of it live (or “as live”) and on location.
My Boss Audio R1100M is used to drive either full-spectrum sub plus line array or horn plus ported-woofer long range speakers (a choice dependent on the vagaries of weather and/or crowd numbers) at impedances from four to sixteen ohms, …the only constant factor being the need to rely exclusively on DC vehicle power.
The verdict: …five stars. No doubt whatsoever.
The Boss Audio R1100M delivers far more than something that’s roughly the price of a case of beer should ever be able to do.
(What a crying shame that its excellent internal fan-cooling arrangements don’t actually extend to chilling beer. Now that WOULD be a world-beater…)
To those well-intentioned myths:
First, “The Remote Subwoofer Level Control doesn’t work.”
Not when the amp’s switched to “Full Range” it doesn’t.
When it’s in “Full Range”, it isn’t expecting to be driving just a subwoofer, is it? Switched to “Low Pass” (i.e. subwoofer) mode, the remote control works a treat.
Second, “It’s under-powered.”
Hang on a cotton-picking second, did you honestly expect to have mountain-moving power for the price of a case of cold ones?
Now look at it’s main fuse. It’s 30 amps. That’s your lot, any more and it all goes dark and quiet until you replace the fuse.
Time for some basic arithmetic, 12 x 30 = 360. That’s 360 watts of total power going in.
Wait a second, my alternator kicks out a gargantuan 14.4 volts! Whoopee! Hurrah! Huzzah! Hallelujah! I’ve now got an earth-shattering 432 watts at my command!
…Uuh, …um, …well, …er, …I WOULD have if everything inside the immaculately designed Boss-Box yielded 100% efficiency.
Sadly, 100% efficiency from ANY power system is the stuff of Nobel Prizes and/or science fiction.
(Trust me when I say that you won’t ever again need to consult anyone’s review of anything after YOU’VE developed a power system that’s 100% efficient.)
Meanwhile, back in the “Real World”, guess what?
With power being wasted to generate heat, run cooling fans and the losses inherent in each and every electronic step taken, the BEST amplifiers are around 25% efficient.
25% of 432 watts?
That would be 108, just a tad LESS than I (and others) have observed to be the continuous power actually (and reliably) delivered from this tiny Boss-Box into 4 ohms.
The controls all do exactly what they’re meant to do. The sound is clean, gutsy and free of artefacts, so, by way of a conclusion, here’s the outcome of some OTHER basic arithmetic I did prior to buying it…
I can’t buy an aluminium housing of comparable ruggedness for the price of this entire amplifier.
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|what i wanted,
I was looking for an amp with the “high level” inputs. so i could run speaker wire from my radio straight to my amp without a line level converter. you will get better sound this way by losing less signal. you must use well shielded pure copper speaker wire, because its easier to pick up interference this way. I have not had any interference issues. I used C&E 14AWG OFC speaker wire, with a Stinger 8 gauge OFC wire kit. I have the speaker wire ran right next to the power cable (this can cause alternator wine in cheaper cables) your system will only be as good as the wires you use. I spent more on the wires then I did for any other part of this build.
I wanted to keep the budget below $250 for everything. here is my parts list:
Boss Audio R1100M… $55
RE Audio RFX 10″… $65
Stinger 8 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit… $35
Stinger 8 Gauge Black Ground Wire 10ft… $12 (I needed extra)
C&E 100ft 14AWG Oxygen Free Copper speaker cable… $30
BOSS Audio CPBL2… $32 (did not use)
ASC Single 10″ Subwoofer Sealed Hatchback Enclosure… $30
Total: about $260
I know that the Boss amps are over rated, just like I know my RE sub is under rated. if I had to guess I would say this amp is putting out something like 300w RMS at 2ohms. and the RE is probably close to the same. for the price of these Boss amps you cant beat them. I got this set up for sound quality because I had heard good things about RE Audio’s. if needed this set up will shake your mirrors. I run the amp at 1/4 gain and it compliments the stock system in my Mazda 3 hatchback perfect with taking up very little space. if you have speakers at the 300w RMS range. this is a great amp on a budget.
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